Because I like my dosa quite crisp, but still flexible enough to shape around a filling, I’ve planted my flag firmly in the middle ground and gone with a 3:1 rice-to-dal ratio, but do experiment to find what suits your taste. As this is a fairly involved recipe anyway, I’m going to go with washed dal (either split or whole – the latter requires a longer soak, but then, so does the rice). Again, there’s no consensus on whether the two should be treated separately or together – El-Waylly keeps them separate, so she can stir the dal soaking liquid into the batter to “speed up the fermentation process”, but others just chuck that anyway and use fresh water instead. Your help is very much appreciated. We’ve kicked off our family festivities with smoked salmon for as long as I can remember – for years, it. The long chains of glucose in amylose pack tightly together into straight, stable rows, forming stiff, strong structures. Some organisations will also be collecting toys for children, but biscuits, sweets and other treats are always welcome alongside necessities. Here's how to make French toast. Stir in the salt – you may also wish to add a dash more water to thin the batter for the first few dosas, because this makes it easier to handle. Find Felicity Cloake of New Statesman and The Guardian's articles, email address, contact information, Twitter and more Get the New Statesman\'s Morning Call email. The John Lewis ad from 2014 and the house (Picture: Mike Horton) When the owners of this spacious, detached Victorian house in Kingston Upon Thames, south-west London, stumbled across it 40 years ago they knew they’d found the perfect family home. Cover loosely with a damp tea towel, and leave to ferment until it’s a mass of bubbles, with a slightly tangy smell: depending on atmospheric conditions, this can take anything from six hours to 24 – as a guide, when a little of the batter is put into a glass of water, it should float. Business. With such changes, it’s possible to imagine a world in which food banks are no longer an accepted and institutionalised part of British life. Nor is explaining to later visitors that there’s no fresh food left at all. As George Orwell put it in 1937, “When you are underfed, harassed, bored, and miserable, you don’t want to eat dull wholesome food. My top tip here is to invest in a flat pan – a frying pan will make it tricky to free the dosa. Put both bowls in a warm place (an airing cupboard or the oven with the light on) and leave to soak for six to eight hours, or overnight. According to Sanjay Thumma, known as Vah-Chef to his many followers online, “The proportion of your rice to your lentil dal determines how crispy your dosa will be … if you like it crispy, increase the proportion of your rice”. I love it.’ Yotam Ottolenghi ‘Such a brilliant book, funny, captivating and wonderfully written. Slimy mucilages and biological films might not sound particularly appetising, but they do give the dosa coherence and elasticity – pure rice dosas are far more fragile and crumbly. It’s the amylose in long-grain rice that gives a dosa its crisp texture – too much, and the dosa will be dry and brittle; not enough, and it will end up soft and flaccid.”, Conversely, Vivek Singh calls for either basmati (long-grain) or dosa rice – “a kind of fat, short-grained, parboiled rice”, according to Anjana Devasahayam of the Happy and Harried blog – which is also Padmanabhan’s rice of choice. Full disclosure: these are a bit of a labour of love to prepare from scratch, which is why they make such perfect street food, but they’re also so good even when they’re bad, that I’m confident you won’t regret it. Prep 20 min Cook 25 min Makes About 30. You also don’t need much oil – just enough to grease the pan. Not, you understand, that there’s anything wrong with tubs of dal and rice, but a lot of the people we serve can’t eat them for dietary reasons, a few live on the streets and don’t have the facilities to reheat them, and some simply prefer to cook themselves (one microwave curry doesn’t go very far). According to Chandra Padmanabhan, author of Dosai, a collection of 100 recipes for different varieties, dosas are “a popular breakfast meal in all of the four states of south India”, a fact confirmed by Indian friends, who concede that perhaps occasionally you might have them for “brunch or lunch in restaurants, but never dinner” (a statement some busy street-food sellers might dispute), yet to my mind they’re utterly delicious at any time of day and with all sorts of fillings, from the traditional to Sohla El-Waylly’s “grilled cheeses, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, breakfast burritos and, when no one is looking, an epic pizzadilla”. Fenugreek seeds are optional, but traditional, not least because they’re said to aid digestion of the dal. Une histoire d'amour réaliste entre un soldat marocain et une jeune femme d'Alsace à la fin de la deuxième guerre mondiale. Is there promise in a global plastics pact? Too chunky, however, and they won’t cook through, so it’s worth practising until you achieve your idea of personal perfection. Support The Guardian Available for everyone, funded by readers Contribute Subscribe Contribute Search jobs Sign in My account Account overview Billing Mathilde déménage au Maroc avec son nouveau mari Amine et ils commencent de bâtir une vie ensemble. As with the rice, it seems there’s no right answer here, but as long as you have a flat pan, and get it hot, but not too hot, you should be fine; as Sharma observes, “dosa needs low heat to cook and brown well”. Do the same with the dal in a second bowl, this time adding the fenugreek seeds, too. Felicity Cloake is a journalist and food writer from London. With the publication of her latest book ‘One more croissant for the road’, a travelogue of eating and cycling through France, I went to talk to her. The classic northern pie gets the Felicity Cloake treatment. Get the New Statesman\'s Morning Call email. A post shared by James Knappett (@jknappett) View this post on Instagram. This recipe from Felicity Cloake is a New England take on the traditional British upside-down cake, this is often made with the north-east’s famous apples, but here cranberries and pecans provide a sharp, crunchy counterpoint to the rich, buttery batter. Fermentation is, of course, a bigger headache in British kitchens than in Indian ones: chef and food writer Roopa Gulati, author of India: The World Vegetarian, published in spring, remembers Laxhmi, the south Indian home help of her childhood, leaving “the dosa batter out in the sun for a full 24 hours (it was brought indoors at dusk) [and] longer in winter”, and muses that she may have felt the fermenting process was more important than the raw ingredients. Felicity Cloake's masterclass Christmas food and drink Felicity Cloake's Christmas recipe for smoked salmon paté A decadent starter for Christmas Day – … Download for offline reading, highlight, bookmark or take notes while you read Perfect Too: 92 More Essential Recipes for Every Cook's Repertoire. From Tom Kerridge to Felicity Cloake, experts recommend their … I’m also going to add a pinch of sugar to get things going. Put both in a large bowl with the sugar and mix with your hands to combine, adding more of the dal soaking water, if necessary, until the mix is the consistency of a thick pancake batter. One was my hopeless ineptitude at spreading batter neatly, an ongoing situation being dealt with in accordance to the old maxim, practice makes perfect, and the second, more serious one was that, as with many beloved dishes, there’s very little agreement about many things dosa related, and particularly hot debate over which rice is best. How Fitz de Souza became a “Maker of the Nation” in Kenya, The UK’s Covid-19 Christmas policy could have a catastrophic human cost. Mouthwatering and I’ve yet to find a better carrot cake recipe (sorry Dan) Finally I really enjoy reading Felicity Cloake’s column in The Guardian. To prepare the fresh spinach, trim the bottom off the stalks, then roughly chop the leaves and finely chop the stems. If you don’t have such machinery handy, Basu suggests covering the bowl with a damp tea towel and putting it in the oven with the light on; a blob of fermented batter should, Sharma explains, float in water, which is a reassuring test. She writes for the Daily Mail, the Metro and Fire & Knives magazine and has a weekly column in the Guardian.She was named Food Journalist of the Year and won the New Media of the Year Award at the 2011 Guild of Food Writers Awards. Perfect Too: 92 More Essential Recipes for Every Cook's Repertoire - Ebook written by Felicity Cloake. ... A big week for members of the banana family. A post shared by Ixta (@ixta.belfrage) Shots of the week. The reasons people access food banks – what Trussell describes as a “fundamental lack of income to sustain a minimum standard of living” – is nothing new, of course, and their use has been rising steadily for the past five years due to factors including benefit cuts and wage stagnation. The dal, meanwhile, seems to act as a glue: Sharma suggests that, when it’s ground up, it produces “a slimy mucilage which I think helps with spreading, etc … it’s used as a biological film in the biotech industry”. Dosa, or dosai, is the name of a family of pancakes from south India first mentioned in Tamil Sangam literature about 1,500 years ago. Some can take fresh food, others have nowhere to store it. Wednesday, Dec 9, 2020. I only have experience at one of 2,000 such services operating in the UK, but it seems sadly unlikely to be atypical. Felicity Cloake’s Tour de France is a triumph. And before I begin proper, I’d like to thank the many, many people who offered wisdom and support on the subject during my ongoing dosa odyssey, who contacted expert friends and fellow dosa lovers on my behalf, who dredged up childhood memories and who assisted with equipment and translation. Ideally, you’d use a high-speed blender for this task, if not a traditional wet grinder, but don’t despair: you can still get good results in an ordinary blender; you’ll just need a little more patience to avoid overheating the motor, as I did on my first attempt. Wash the rice, then put it in a bowl and cover it generously with cold water. You want something a little bit ‘tasty’.” And if 2020 has taught me anything, it’s that chocolate is very tasty indeed. Science. The flavour is certainly less interesting and, thanks to the fine grind, the results less crisp, but as a quick fix, it’s not half bad. (Thumbnails by Felicity). I love reading about the history of recipes and the different versions chefs make. By Felicity Cloake. Wed 14 Oct 2020 07.00 EDT. As we packed up, another more seasoned helper noted that even the microwave meals had all disappeared – “and you know people are getting desperate when they’re taking them”. I’m afraid to say my testers and I couldn’t detect this, but those with more sensitive palates might like to knock it back halfway through fermentation. While anti-poverty campaigners have welcomed measures such as the Covid winter grant scheme in England, and the Scottish child payment, they say more needs to be done, including the temporary suspension of benefit deductions and the extension of the uplift to Universal Credit, to ensure the social security safety net is strong enough to support those forced to rely on it. Carry on cooking until the top is dry – if you’ve made the dosa thick, you may wish either to flip it or to put a pan lid on top to help it along. Top Tech Wire provides latest breaking news and information on the top stories, weather, business, entertainment, politics, and more. Ordinary dosa is always made with urad dal, or black gram, the same lentil used to make delicious, creamy dal makhani, though opinion is divided on whether the whole unskinned bean should be used, or whether washed or even split urad dal is acceptable. Yet though this is by no means an impossible dream – lobby your MP, support the Trussell Trust’s Hunger Free Future campaign, vote for change in the next election – such actions won’t help those struggling to get by, let alone enjoy this Christmas. Fair-skinned with laughing eyes, originally from Hertfordshire, she lives in North London on the Caledonian Rd. We also have regional French recipes from food writer and author Felicity Cloake. And… I’m listening: please tell me what have I got wrong? By continuing to use this website, you consent to our use of these cookies. Share on Facebook; The amylose comes out of the starch granules during parboiling, which might help metabolism of the yeast.” The result, which even I can understand, is that batter made with par-boiled rice ferments noticeably faster than one made with basmati; it also seems to make slightly fluffier dosas, but that may well be because the batter is better fermented – certainly it has a more pronounced tangy flavour after 24 hours. The old house was tired and needed replumbing and rewiring, but it retained all […] FRENCH toast, also known as eggy bread, is a delicious and indulgent breakfast food. If you’re desperate for a dosa at short notice, and don’t have a source nearby (note that some Indian grocers sell ready-made batter in the chilled section), you could do a lot worse than cheat: Meera Sodha has a fairly standard “proper” recipe in her book Fresh India, and also includes a “daily” version using chickpea and wheat flour that comes together in minutes and has a deliciously rich, toasty flavour, though they’re less close to the real thing than the “cheat’s method” in Dan Toombs’ The Curry Guy Easy book. Portal4News Home; World. [see also: Polling: Majority of public want government to pay for free school meals in holidays]. The pandemic has exacerbated people's reliance on food banks, and charities are expecting this to be the busiest winter yet. The Guardian - Back to home. Two problems arose during the researching of this piece. At this time of year, don’t forget the things that make life a little brighter. Batter made with dosa rice after 12 hours. 3 Prepare the tart tin and roll out the pastry. Prep 20 minSoak 6-8 hrFerment 6 hr+Cook 3 minMakes 6, 300g rice, ideally idli/dosa rice or easy-cook100g washed urad dal½ tsp fenugreek seeds1 tsp sugar1 tsp saltOil, to cook. Falling Clouberries – Tessa Kiros – a loving collection of recipes from around the world and from her family. If you’d like to do something right now, find out what your chosen food bank really needs; most have websites or social media, and many welcome financial donations through apps such as Bankuet. Once a droplet of water sizzles on the surface, lower the heat and pour a ladleful of batter into the centre of the pan. To test this theory, I make Sharma’s recipe with some paella rice I have hanging around and another batch with ordinary short-grain and, like him, I don’t notice any significant difference in texture (though connoisseurs may well disagree – if you have evidence to the contrary, please do share it below: there are so many known unknowns here that I consider this week’s column merely a work in progress). Here is how to make lamb tagine. Or try restaurant-quality family meal ideas… start with cheesy soufflés before a pot of boeuf bourguignon or an impressive tartiflette, and serve the likes of dauphinoise potatoes on the side. Everything else is just flavour: drizzle it with ghee, if you like, but it’s not necessary, especially if you’re serving it with a rich accompaniment. El-Waylly goes for a double fermentation, almost like a bread dough, stirring it down as it rises “to release the built-up gases”, which, she explains, “allows a more complex flavour to develop” and gives the batter “a light, meringue-like texture”. What is essential, however, after 36 hours of patience, is to make sure you eat them as hot and as crisp from the pan as possible; you may wait for dosa, but dosa waits for no one. Some recipes, particularly those writing for a predominantly western audience, call for long-grain rice such as basmati, with El-Waylly recommending it for its “high percentage of amylose. Halfdark Sign Up. Mallika Basu’s book Masala, meanwhile, combines ordinary and flattened rice (flakes of beaten parboiled rice known as poha, which, like cooked or par-boiled rice, will help speed up fermentation), while chef Minal Patel of Prashad in Drighlington, West Yorkshire, claims that broken rice is “perfect here, because the starch helps to make the dosas lovely and crispy”. The country’s largest network of food banks, the Trussell Trust, anticipates this being its busiest winter yet: demand in the second quarter of 2020 was 81 per cent higher than the same period last year. • Dosa: do you like them thick or thin, soft or crunchy – and which variety is your favourite? But the economic conditions created by the pandemic have exacerbated an already growing problem. Rather than faffing around with soaking and grinding, he uses rice and urad dal flours, as they do in “busy restaurants”, and suggests adding a squeeze of lemon juice if you don’t have time to ferment them. (Mixing it with clean hands will also help in this department, thanks to the natural yeasts on your skin.). [see also: Why half a million redundancies are only the beginning of the UK’s jobs crisis]. (Note that urad dal flour is fairly easy to source at specialist Asian food stores.). This website uses cookies to help us give you the best experience when you visit our website. Christmas Day on a City Bus Book Description : Christmas Day On a City Bus runs the gamut of contemporary American life. Family Travel Money More Felicity Cloake's masterclass. Pulsing it for 10 seconds, then leaving it to rest for the same time, worked for me, as did keeping the batter fairly liquid from the start, rather than diluting it just before cooking, as Padmanabhan’s recipe recommends. According to the Food Foundation, by May 4.9 million adults in the UK were food insecure, compared with two million before lockdown, and those households included 1.7 million children. They can be thick or thin, sweet or savoury, and made from everything from oats and barley to chickpeas, a popular breakfast meal in all of the four states of south India, Sohla El-Waylly’s “grilled cheeses, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, breakfast burritos and, when no one is looking, an epic pizzadilla”, Vivek Singh calls for either basmati (long-grain) or dosa rice, according to Anjana Devasahayam of the Happy and Harried blog, Nik Sharma’s astonishingly comprehensive dosa guide, whole unskinned bean should be used, or whether washed or even split urad dal is acceptable, known as Vah-Chef to his many followers online. To summarise, for those less interested in rice varieties than me, use any kind of raw or commercially par-boiled rice you like, but, unsurprisingly, dosa/idli rice seems best suited to the job. Felicity is the award-winning food writer behind the Guardian’s long-running How to Make the Perfect column Wipe the tawa with a damp cloth to cool it down before repeating with the rest of the dosa batter. Sign-up. Padmanabhan explains that the earliest dosa would have been made from rice alone; adding urad dal, or black gram, turned it into a nutritional powerhouse of complex carbohydrate and protein: “Served with a coconut chutney and vegetable sambar, it becomes a complete balanced meal.” But rice remains the main ingredient: a few recipes use twice as much rice as dal, with Sharma going down to as little as 1.5 parts rice to 1 part dal, though ratios of 3:1 (Padmanabhan, Singh’s Indian Festival Feasts, Basu) or even 4:1 (Patel) are more common. In the absence of that helpfully hot sun, to encourage things along, Sharma advises starting when you soak the rice and dal, then holding the batter at between 21C and 27C, either in a sous-vide machine or a warm place (El-Waylly also favours a sous-vide or a slow-cooker with a yoghurt mode). Follow @@felicitycloake. This collection of short stories explores tales of love, marriage, divorce, desire, children, careers, ambition, wild youth, parent-child relationships, and the … Felicity Cloake, at a mere 36 years old, is fast reaching national treasure status. Felicity Cloake. We usually end up freezing the excess for the following week, but that day the table was bare. Hey, don’t shoot the messenger. It doesn’t need to be silky-smooth, however: Thumma cautions that “if you want a nice, crispy dosa, don’t blend it very fine, leave it slightly coarse”. A post shared by Felicity Cloake (@felicitycloake) View this post on Instagram. I feel like I was packed up in Felicity… Read this book using Google Play Books app on your PC, android, iOS devices. Our twin bibles were the Guide des Relais Routiers and Le Guide Michelin I was taught French by French grannies armed only with Le Journal de Mickey. The arguments for the extra task are that the skin adds to the nutrition and flavour of the dish, which seems fair, except that they’re then often – though not always – removed later in the process. Photograph: Felicity Cloake/The Guardian D osa, or dosai, is the name of a family of pancakes from south India first mentioned in Tamil Sangam literature about 1,500 years ago. Skip to main content. Using the back of the ladle (or the base of a small heatproof bowl), and starting from the centre, spread out the batter in concentric circles, pushing down quite hard, until it covers the surface of the pan – don’t worry if it seems thin in places and don’t worry if it’s not perfect: the first few are always tricky, but still taste good. Though I get (relatively) good results on my cast-iron griddle, many online convince me I’ll never achieve success without a proper tawa, only for others then to inform me, after I’d purchased this more lightweight flat pan, that tawa are only for roti and paratha, while others still chipped in to say non-stick never produces great dosa. Family Travel Money More Felicity Cloake's masterclass Food How to make baked beans – recipe How to turn a bag of humble dried haricot beans into that special, sweet tomato toast topper we love. Felicity Cloake is the New Statesman’s food columnist. There are many surprisingly cheery aspects to volunteering at a food bank, but giving out two carrots and an onion to a family of seven, as I had to do last week, is not among them. Like Felicity Cloake I spent many childhood holidays in France with my parents, though 30 years earlier and without tents. I found it easier to get a smooth batter by blending the two separately, and feel the soaking liquid gives El-Waylly’s dosas a more pronounced, earthy flavour that I enjoy. Can anyone explain more about the science of the rice involved? Felicity Cloake’s perfect gougères. Meanwhile, grease a deep, loose-bottomed, 20-22cm tart tin. Her latest book is The A-Z of Eating: a Flavour Map for Adventurous Cooks. It is full of greed and wit, jam-packed with priceless practical information, peppered with a sense of adventure and wonder. Felicity Cloake’s cullen skink. Cook until the edges start to come away from the base of the pan, then slide a flat spatula underneath to loosen – add some more oil or ghee around the edges to help, if necessary. They put shop-bought ones completely in the shade Photograph: Dan Matthews/The Guardian. This new Magic Eye series is intense. Now fold up or fill and roll, and serve immediately with your accompaniments of choice. Felicity Cloake posted on Instagram: “I celebrated my 30th birthday with a surprise meat fruit at Dinner (and a massive house party with…” • See all of @felicitycloake's photos and videos on their profile. Drain both bowls, retaining the liquid from the dal, then, working in batches, grind both separately in a blender or wet grinder with a little of the dal soaking water until creamy, but still with a very slight grittiness. Removal of Infringing Content ... LAMB TAGINE is a delicious and warming dish and can be cooked with relative ease at home for the whole family to enjoy. 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